Seems the BEAST was getting (shall I say) temperamental on me at idle as of late. After reading Guzziology and understanding the trim pot a bit more, I went in to take a peek. I richened things just a tad (about 11:30 on the dial) and whoa did it make a difference. It’s like a whole new machine how smooth it is down low and not a wink at idle. Pretty cool stuff. There’s a Hell of a lot to learn on this machine...but it’s fun to have to be in touch with its behaviors.
There is an idle mixture screw (actually from idle to 3000 RPM) in the CPU under your seat. You have to take off the tape and rubber plug to get at it. That is known as the "trim pot". It is much smaller than I had imagined (the screw that is). To lean out the mixture you turn the screw clockwise, for richer anti-clockwise. I warn you to be VERY careful with this. Any static electricity will fry the CPU, so ground yourself first if you use a small metal screwdriver. It is best if you have a plastic one. ANyhow, if you should try adjusting things, make very small changes at a time. Also...the CPU needs time after shutting down the bike to recalibrate, so wait about 30 seconds before messing again with the screw. I got mine the first try without the bike running with a very small adjustment from about 12:30 to 11:30. I think it turns from about 8 to 4 if you’re thinking of a clock (roughly 120 degrees). I’m looking at the screw as if sitting backwards on the seat. I hope this helps? I simply read in Guzziology that if the idle is rough one answer could be to richen the mixture a bit. It worked for me, but I tried the idle adjustment screw first. Please be careful inside the CPU...and also replace the tape afterward to seal it from water.
Others...please chime in if I’ve stated something wrong. I am far from being one to thoroughly understand this or walk someone through it.
Yes. Treat the trim screw about like the idle mxture screw on carbs.
Keep in mind that it only has about 270 degrees of rotation. I’ve had to repair a couple where the owners cranked them too far and broke them.
A plastic screwdriver is a good idea if you have one. And a little mark with a sharpie marker can help you see the trim screw turn easier.
Where precisely is this air/fuel screw on the injectors... anybody got a picture and an arrow?
It's inside the standard WM16M ECU - look under the large rubber bung for a small slotted poetiometer.
The "By-pass" adjustment (air/fuel) is at bottom of the injector body inside a hole facing up. I use a thin small screw driver. The "trim" adjustment is under the rubber plug inside the ECU.
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