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Se muestran los artículos pertenecientes al tema MOTO GUZZI.

Hunter S. Thompson on the Ducati 900

Song of the Sausage Creature
by Hunter S. Thompson


There are some things nobody needs in this world, and a bright-red, hunch-back, warp-speed 900cc cafe racer is one of them - but I want one anyway, and on some days I actually believe I need one. That is why they are dangerous.

Everybody has fast motorcycles these days. Some people go 150 miles an hour on two-lane blacktop roads, but not often. There are too many oncoming trucks and too many radar cops and too many stupid animals in the way. You have to be a little crazy to ride these super-torque high-speed crotch rockets anywhere except a racetrack - and even there, they will scare the whimpering shit out of you... There is, after all, not a pig's eye worth of difference between going head-on into a Peterbilt or sideways into the bleachers. On some days you get what you want, and on others, you get what you need.

When Cycle World called me to ask if I would road-test the new Harley Road King, I got uppity and said I'd rather have a Ducati superbike. It seemed like a chic decision at the time, and my friends on the superbike circuit got very excited. "Hot damn," they said. "We will take it to the track and blow the bastards away."

"Balls," I said. "Never mind the track. The track is for punks. We are Road People. We are Cafe Racers."

The Cafe Racer is a different breed, and we have our own situations. Pure speed in sixth gear on a 5000-foot straightaway is one thing, but pure speed in third gear on a gravel-strewn downhill ess-turn is quite another.

But we like it. A thoroughbred Cafe Racer will ride all night through a fog storm in freeway traffic to put himself into what somebody told him was the ugliest and tightest decreasing-radius turn since Genghis Khan invented the corkscrew.

Cafe Racing is mainly a matter of taste. It is an atavistic mentality, a peculiar mix of low style, high speed, pure dumbness, and overweening commitment to the Cafe Life and all its dangerous pleasures... I am a Cafe Racer myself, on some days - and it is one of my finest addictions.




I am not without scars on my brain and my body, but I can live with them. I still feel a shudder in my spine every time I see a picture of a Vincent Black Shadow, or when I walk into a public restroom and hear crippled men whispering about the terrifying Kawasaki Triple... I have visions of compound femur-fractures and large black men in white hospital suits holding me down on a gurney while a nurse called "Bess" sews the flaps of my scalp together with a stitching drill.




Ho, ho. Thank God for these flashbacks. The brain is such a wonderful instrument (until God sinks his teeth into it). Some people hear Tiny Tim singing when they go under, and some others hear the song of the Sausage Creature.




When the Ducati turned up in my driveway, nobody knew what to do with it. I was in New York, covering a polo tournament, and people had threatened my life. My lawyer said I should give myself up and enroll in the Federal Witness Protection Program. Other people said it had something to do with the polo crowd.

The motorcycle business was the last straw. It had to be the work of my enemies, or people who wanted to hurt me. It was the vilest kind of bait, and they knew I would go for it.

Of course. You want to cripple the bastard? Send him a 130-mph cafe-racer. And include some license plates, he'll think it's a streetbike. He's queer for anything fast.

Which is true. I have been a connoisseur of fast motorcycles all my life. I bought a brand-new 650 BSA Lightning when it was billed as "the fastest motorcycle ever tested by Hot Rod magazine." I have ridden a 500-pound Vincent through traffic on the Ventura Freeway with burning oil on my legs and run the Kawa 750 Triple through Beverly Hills at night with a head full of acid... I have ridden with Sonny Barger and smoked weed in biker bars with Jack Nicholson, Grace Slick, Ron Zigler and my infamous old friend, Ken Kesey, a legendary Cafe Racer.

Some people will tell you that slow is good - and it may be, on some days - but I am here to tell you that fast is better. I've always believed this, in spite of the trouble it's caused me. Being shot out of a cannon will always be better than being squeezed out of a tube. That is why God made fast motorcycles, Bubba....

So when I got back from New York and found a fiery red rocket-style bike in my garage, I realized I was back in the road-testing business.

The brand-new Ducati 900 Campione del Mundo Desmodue Supersport double-barreled magnum Cafe Racer filled me with feelings of lust every time I looked at it. Others felt the same way. My garage quickly became a magnet for drooling superbike groupies. They quarreled and bitched at each other about who would be the first to help me evaluate my new toy... And I did, of course, need a certain spectrum of opinions, besides my own, to properly judge this motorcycle. The Woody Creek Perverse Environmental Testing Facility is a long way from Daytona or even top-fuel challenge-sprints on the Pacific Coast Highway, where teams of big-bore Kawasakis and Yamahas are said to race head-on against each other in death-defying games of "chicken" at 100 miles an hour....

No. Not everybody who buys a high-dollar torque-brute yearns to go out in a ball of fire on a public street in L.A. Some of us are decent people who want to stay out of the emergency room, but still blast through neo-gridlock traffic in residential districts whenever we feel like it... For that we need Fine Machinery.

Which we had - no doubt about that. The Ducati people in New Jersey had opted, for some reasons of their own, to send me the 900ss-sp for testing - rather than their 916 crazy-fast, state-of-the-art superbike track-racer. It was far too fast, they said - and prohibitively expensive - to farm out for testing to a gang of half-mad Colorado cowboys who think they're world-class Cafe Racers.

The Ducati 900 is a finely engineered machine. My neighbors called it beautiful and admired its racing lines. The nasty little bugger looked like it was going 90 miles an hour when it was standing still in my garage.

Taking it on the road, though, was a genuinely terrifying experience. I had no sense of speed until I was going 90 and coming up fast on a bunch of pickup trucks going into a wet curve along the river. I went for both brakes, but only the front one worked, and I almost went end over end. I was out of control staring at the tailpipe of a U.S. Mail truck, still stabbing frantically at my rear brake pedal, which I just couldn't find... I am too tall for these new-age roadracers; they are not built for any rider taller than five-nine, and the rearset brake pedal was not where I thought it would be. Mid-size Italian pimps who like to race from one cafe to another on the boulevards of Rome in a flat-line prone position might like this, but I do not.

I was hunched over the tank like a person diving into a pool that got emptied yesterday. Whacko! Bashed on the concrete bottom, flesh ripped off, a Sausage Creature with no teeth, fucked-up for the rest of its life.




We all love Torque, and some of us have taken it straight over the high side from time to time - and there is always Pain in that... But there is also Fun, the deadly element, and Fun is what you get when you screw this monster on. BOOM! Instant take-off, no screeching or squawking around like a fool with your teeth clamping down on our tongue and your mind completely empty of everything but fear.

No. This bugger digs right in and shoots you straight down the pipe, for good or ill.

On my first take-off, I hit second gear and went through the speed limit on a two-lane blacktop highway full of ranch traffic. By the time I went up to third, I was going 75 and the tach was barely above 4000 rpm....

And that's when it got its second wind. From 4000 to 6000 in third will take you from 75 mph to 95 in two seconds - and after that, Bubba, you still have fourth, fifth, and sixth. Ho, ho.

I never got to sixth gear, and I didn't get deep into fifth. This is a shameful admission for a full-bore Cafe Racer, but let me tell you something, old sport: This motorcycle is simply too goddamn fast to ride at speed in any kind of normal road traffic unless you're ready to go straight down the centerline with your nuts on fire and a silent scream in your throat.

When aimed in the right direction at high speed, though, it has unnatural capabilities. This I unwittingly discovered as I made my approach to a sharp turn across some railroad tracks, saw that I was going way too fast and that my only chance was to veer right and screw it on totally, in a desperate attempt to leapfrog the curve by going airborne.

It was a bold and reckless move, but it was necessary. And it worked: I felt like Evel Knievel as I soared across the tracks with the rain in my eyes and my jaws clamped together in fear. I tried to spit down on the tracks as I passed them, but my mouth was too dry... I landed hard on the edge of the road and lost my grip for a moment as the Ducati began fishtailing crazily into oncoming traffic. For two or three seconds I came face to face with the Sausage Creature....

But somehow the brute straightened out. I passed a schoolbus on the right and got the bike under control long enough to gear down and pull off into an abandoned gravel driveway where I stopped and turned off the engine. My hands had seized up like claws and the rest of my body was numb. I felt nauseous and I cried for my mama, but nobody heard, then I went into a trance for 30 or 40 seconds until I was finally able to light a cigarette and calm down enough to ride home. I was too hysterical to shift gears, so I went the whole way in first at 40 miles an hour.




Whoops! What am I saying? Tall stories, ho, ho... We are motorcycle people; we walk tall and we laugh at whatever's funny. We shit on the chests of the Weird....

But when we ride very fast motorcycles, we ride with immaculate sanity. We might abuse a substance here and there, but only when it's right. The final measure of any rider's skill is the inverse ratio of his preferred Traveling Speed to the number of bad scars on his body. It is that simple: If you ride fast and crash, you are a bad rider. And if you are a bad rider, you should not ride motorcycles.

The emergence of the superbike has heightened this equation drastically. Motorcycle technology has made such a great leap forward. Take the Ducati. You want optimum cruising speed on this bugger? Try 90mph in fifth at 5500 rpm - and just then, you see a bull moose in the middle of the road. WHACKO. Meet the Sausage Creature.

Or maybe not: The Ducati 900 is so finely engineered and balanced and torqued that you *can* do 90 mph in fifth through a 35-mph zone and get away with it. The bike is not just fast - it is *extremely* quick and responsive, and it *will* do amazing things... It is like riding a Vincent Black Shadow, which would outrun an F-86 jet fighter on the take-off runway, but at the end, the F-86 would go airborne and the Vincent would not, and there was no point in trying to turn it. WHAMO! The Sausage Creature strikes again.

There is a fundamental difference, however, between the old Vincents and the new breed of superbikes. If you rode the Black Shadow at top speed for any length of time, you would almost certainly die. That is why there are not many life members of the Vincent Black Shadow Society. The Vincent was like a bullet that went straight; the Ducati is like the magic bullet in Dallas that went sideways and hit JFK and the Governor of Texas at the same time.

It was impossible. But so was my terrifying sideways leap across the railroad tracks on the 900sp. The bike did it easily with the grace of a fleeing tomcat. The landing was so easy I remember thinking, goddamnit, if I had screwed it on a little more I could have gone a lot farther.

Maybe this is the new Cafe Racer macho. My bike is so much faster than yours that I dare you to ride it, you lame little turd. Do you have the balls to ride this BOTTOMLESS PIT OF TORQUE?

That is the attitude of the new-age superbike freak, and I am one of them. On some days they are about the most fun you can have with your clothes on. The Vincent just killed you a lot faster than a superbike will. A fool couldn't ride the Vincent Black Shadow more than once, but a fool can ride a Ducati 900 many times, and it will always be a bloodcurdling kind of fun. That is the Curse of Speed which has plagued me all my life. I am a slave to it. On my tombstone they will carve, "IT NEVER GOT FAST ENOUGH FOR ME."

16/11/2013 21:34. plotino #. MOTO GUZZI No hay comentarios. Comentar.

Closing Time for Moto Guzzi?

 I guess is the proper phrase. If the information received is correct, Guzzi is no longer making motorcycles in Mandello del Lario. What a blow that must be for that gorgeous town with its friendly people. And what a long way the brand has gone since 1919 and 1921. The original founders had a vision that the brand should help the town that made it so prosperous. They wanted to build motorcycles that were sturdy and easy to maintain. Reliable and the racing machines had to be innovative. The V-twin was designed as a machine that should be easy to maintain, easy to build, and easy to operate whilst giving moderate perfomance. When a dentist showed he could do magic with Guzzi, he got the job to do it, and he did. Just like Carcano was brought in at the racing dept. in the 1930s, just like Carlo Guzzi showed the father of Giorgio Parodi. The founders had their own philosophy how to build bikes and where to do it. It came out of passion, and that passion fuelled the birth of so many machines, and led to so many incredibly impressive racing machines.

That passion wanted to keep the factory where it was born, full of tradition, and the only safe place left where the original ideas of the founders still would be brought into the models that so many times were perceived by their designers for their riders. Guzzi Production has left Mandello. Ciao Guzzi. It was fun, thank you so much for staying there so long and making such a wonderful destination for countless trips. Thanks for providing a place to meet new and old friends. A place to show my kids, like my father showed me, like his father showed him.

Guzzi as I knew always have known it, is gone. I just cannot get over it but I think I am one of the few. But I still keep dreaming and hoping for that new Guzzi that looks like a Guzzi, handles like a Guzzi, can be maintained like a Guzzi and is durable as a Guzzi. And maybe it will be produced in Mandello. But ah well people, it lasted 90 years.

It is odd how lifelong cornerstone values can simply change. I really wonder who really cares though. But the people that work for Guzzi in Mandello, so many of them so proud of the brand, sometimes people with the 3RD generation already working for Guzzi, so passionate and always helpful for the non local Guzzi riders visiting their village and their factory; they are the ones that really suffer as their livelihood is in danger. And for all of us that have enjoyed their incredible hospitality; have learned to really appreciate the brands’ history; and have learned about the incredible dynamics of the way it created friendships and even families worldwide; for all of us it has left an uncomfortable void of a time that you knew once was, but never will return again.

Ivar de Gier


Hi all,

This topic has raised some issues and questions that I perhaps can enlighten.

First of all, the fact that right now Guzzi is not producing motorcycles in Mandello is nothing new. On this forum, Mike Harper posted a topic on June 19, 2009, which shows the content of the article that was printed in the “Il Giorno” newspaper (Lecco edition) the same day. Nolan (Woodbury)’s post in this topic shows the text of the same article. If you read the text, it is clear that from June 22; Guzzi for the time being has seized motorcycle production in Mandello.

What the newspaper does not say, is that the article is based on a press release by Piaggio. And that press release is based on an internal Piaggio memo that also came into my possession. Furthermore, I also have received the same information that indeed the production was closed down that day independently from 6 people that work on different levels at Guzzi.
Four of these people shared with me months ago information that Guzzi motorcycle production in Mandello would be closed down after the August holiday closure of the factory. That information was the same as confidential information that I received from a Piaggio source last April. The same source told me about this in May 2008, but I did not take that seriously.
To these people, with the exception of the Piaggio source, it was and is a shock that production was shut down already last Monday. As you can see from the dates, it was only announced publicly the Friday before.
I wrote the text “ if my information is correct “, because I personally think it is unimaginable that this happens. My thoughts have nothing to do with reasons of efficiency in production, the global crisis, Piaggio's views and reasoning in this etc. etc. For me, Guzzi and Mandello always have been a set and connected entity. But that is me personally, based on the relationship me and my family have always had with Guzzi and with a number of the people that work and have worked there. It was and is not uncommon to step into a little restaurant in Mandello and see four old factory racing riders play a game of cards. Or order an icecream at the local parlor, you feel a little pinch in your side, you look up and it is Carcano, the designer of the V8 and many other machines who wanted to pull a little prank. It always has been so connected for me personally, that I simply cannot believe it, hence why that text was there.

Somebody asked: “Where is the new factory then?  When was it built/equipped/staffed?”

Piaggio is still busy setting up assembly lines set up for production in a facility which also produces motorcycles for other brands then the brands ones owned by Piaggio. If my information is correct, the right sticker will be put on every machine that will run of these production lines.

Fact of the matter is, this was planned a long time ago and put into action indeed in such a way that the unobservant are let down gently; Greg (Field) is absolutely right about that and it cannot be put in a better way.

Enjoy your weekend!

Ivar de Gier

30/06/2009 11:13. plotino #. MOTO GUZZI Hay 1 comentario.




Hi all!
I just tensioned the belts of the beast and I'd like to report to the group the way I did it because it's extremly simple yet a bit rough. Nevertheless I find it is better than "feel" tensioning, at least for me.
You only have to:
1) drill a 8mm hole in a 19mm wrench at 32mm from the centre of the fork (I mean the part that fits the bolt, sry for my poor english...)
2) bend the wrench so that when it is put on the nut of the tensioning pulley and on the hinge it will not interfere with the belt case
3) after having loosed the bolts, apply at the other end of the wrench a spring dynamometer (or whatever is called in english...I mean that tool made by a spring with a index and two hooks through which you can measure weights or forces) and pull with the needed force. This force is calculated by: F=T/a, where T is the prescribed torque in kilograms*meter and "a" is the distance in meters between the hinge and the point where the hook of the dynamometer is applied. In my case is a=0,16m so F=3kg, considering T=0.48kgm. Keep the dynamometer as orthogonal to the wrench as possible.

A  photo explains better than 1000 words...:



Hope it is clear.
Is better to get some help from someone because the wrench tends to slip away and you would need anyway a third arm to tighten the bolts...
The spring tool is obviously not as precise as a dynamometer wrench, but it does the job.
As you can see I completely removed the front frame. To do this you need to install new brake tubes, but I think it's worth because without the front frame changing and/or tensioning the belts becomes extremely comfortable and easier.



19/11/2008 18:00. plotino #. MOTO GUZZI No hay comentarios. Comentar.





What relays are you using?
If the answer is that you are stll running the stock relays, replace them all.
You can get good ones from DPGUZZI.COM


19/11/2008 17:00. plotino #. MOTO GUZZI No hay comentarios. Comentar.





All the Centauros had the "pump down" front brake problem from new, and it was shared with 1100 Sports and Daytona RS's built in the same 97/98 period. Basically, you can never tell exactly how far the front brake lever is going to move when you pull it. If you really want to get it to come close to the bar you pull, then half-way release, then pull again... and repeat. On many Centautos you can get the front brake lever all the way back to the grip playing that game.

It was probably a piston seal leakage problem designed in by the factory. Brembo stuff was really poor for a period in the 90s. Master cylinder piston seals rely on the pressure of the fluid to seal the lip, so without careful design, when pressure is released a little fluid leaks from high pressure to low, past the seal.

For most people, the usual solution is a new master cylinder. I use the same remote reservoir Nissin master cylinder that everybody used on Ducatis in the 90s to solve a similar problem on Ducatis with Brembo M/Cs. The Nissin was used on all kinds of bikes (Japanese, Triumphs, Cagiva Gran Canyon, you name it) and is high quality, inexpensive, and widely available. The brake feel is vastly improved, with the lever always pulling the same distance for the same pull.

Brembo fixed the problem around 2000, so if you want to stick with Brembo the master cylinders on 2000-on Ducatis and Guzzis are fine too.


PS If the rear brake is fading you are likely using it too much. Think of it as a secondary brake, not to be used for serious, repetitive braking. Also, if you've faded it to the point of boiling fluid and lever moving without resistance, you should change the brake fluid.

18/07/2008 10:31. plotino #. MOTO GUZZI No hay comentarios. Comentar.



Hey all,
Need to replace the front rubber. Wondering what some of you are using to get the front end up for wheel removal. Is there some kind of wheel chock that makes it relatively simple or do I have to lift it from the sump area?



10/07/2008 14:16. plotino #. MOTO GUZZI No hay comentarios. Comentar.


bising wrote:
Was wondering whether our bikes share the same engine oil used on cars. Referring to TIPS, those names mentioned, eg Castrol GTX, are common engine oil for cars.



Oh good - an oil thread!

Yes in principal - with some minor reservations about the actual specification being more suitable for our 'old fashioned' Guzzi OHV engines. Wink

Why? - Conventional modern motorcycle engines have the engine and gearbox combined in a 'unit' construction. Therefore they must use specialist oils which can deal with the lubrication needs of the engine and also provide the extreme pressure (EP) values required for the gearbox cogs - and often the clutch assembly as well in bikes without dry clutches.

On the face of it this sounds like a good situation - only using one type of oil - until you realise that dedicated motorcycle oils can be much more expensive and almost invariably require changing at more frequent intervals.

As Guzzi engine and transmission assemblies are seperate entities - much the same as old style car assemblies - they can use oils which are formulated to function best in the different units. As you have noted, multigrade 'car' oil in the engine and EP oil in the gearbox and rear drive box. Benefits are lower overall costs of the oils and vastly increased service intervals - for the gearbox and rear drive at least.

I'd add that I feel more than happy that the gears are running in oils designed specifically to give higher shear strength, (85W-140 in my case), than engine oil multigrades.

Something else to consider is that it is being reported more often that the latest synthetic multigrades may not be the best selection for the older design of pushrod type engines - do a search on the forum and elsewhere for the reasons why - so cheaper semi-synthetic or dino oils might be better in our Guzzis with subtle differences between the hi-cams and other 2 valve engines of the same era. I'm sure that some recommendations will follow.

There's a lot of what I think is marketing and regulatory silliness going on with engine oils right now... the bike manufacturers have taken to recommending exorbidantly expensive oils, probably because they are in fact better at handling high temperatures, but equally (I believe) because they have marketing arrangements with the oil manufacturers. They have to get their oil for new bikes from somewhere, and I'm guessing they get it that oil for free if they write the right oil recommendation in the owners manual, and put the right sticker on the crankcase...

I was recently confronted with the spectre of a liter of motorcycle oil on a gas station shelf in Italy for 24 Euro... or roughly 37 US dollars per liter! Around 0 for an oil change! Total insanity from my point of view, and not something I'm going to get involved with. I've run my Guzzis for 100's-of-thousands of miles on what is now /quart 20W-50 car oil, and with all the hype right now I choose both the bike to ride and the oil in its crankcase with a certain level of critical thinking... Every bike is different, but marketing in the motorcycle industry has gone off the rails, and into orbit, in alliance with regulations that push towards oil viscosities closer to water than what the engine really wants: 5W oil, regardless of its stability in modern synthetic multigrade form, was not invented because your engine likes it.

That's the way I look at it, and act on it Smile

24/06/2008 14:18. plotino #. MOTO GUZZI No hay comentarios. Comentar.


AGM Battery Technology Primer
16 June 2008


AGM (Absorption or Absorbed Glass Mat) battery technology was developed in the 1980's for military aircraft.

In AGM batteries, the acid is absorbed between the "plates" and immobilized by a very fine fiberglass mat.

The "plates" in an AGM battery may be flat like wet cell lead-acid battery, or they may be wound in a tight spiral. Their unique construction (as they are supported in large part by the mat) also allows for the lead in their plates to be purer as they no longer need to support their own weight as in traditional cells.

Some of the liquid material will escape during charging thus decreasing the overall capacity of the battery. The lids (covers) allow safe dispersal of any excess hydrogen that may be formed during overcharge. They are not permanently sealed, but are maintenance free; and they can be oriented in any manner, unlike normal lead-acid batteries which must be kept upright to avoid acid spills and to keep the plates' orientation vertical.

Many modern motorcycles on the market utilize AGM batteries for the combined benefits of reduced likelihood of acid-spilling during accidents, and for packaging reasons (lighter, smaller battery to do the same job, battery can be installed at odd angles if needed for the design of the motorcycle).

Specific things AGM's do not like (i.e. impair their working correctly):

• Parasitic loads - Any small continues load that is on 24x7 such as theft alarms.
• Short rides - Because the battery is difficult to recharge completely, 35 mile (50 kilometers) rides are a minimum. Potentially a once a month ride of 200 miles (300 kilometers) may give enough of a topping off to the charge to keep the battery happy.
• Charging voltages which exceed 15 VDC. Most chargers are not so tightly controlled for over voltage protection.

Things I have found out:

• The cover can be removed.
• Using a syringe distilled water can be added (do not use scented water made for steam irons).
• The water is absorbed slowly so be patient (20 minutes is not abnormal for a couple of ml to be absorbed).
• While charging a discharged battery the battery can handle a high current (20 A for 10 minutes, 10 A for 20 minutes, etc.) and in fact a high current is useful to charge the deep recesses of the battery.

Some people have had very good success augmenting their battery charges with various AGM specific battery tenders that seem to take care of the problems of parasitic loads and short rides.

If you do not have the facility to deliver power to a garage area as is needed with a battery tender you could do what I do!

I have had my battery pronounced dead and used up on several occasions! On each of those occasions I have done the following procedure.

My way:

Equipment and supplies needed:

• A wrench to remove the battery from the bike.
• Distilled water (the cheap good stuff, no scents for steam irons, etc.).
• An old hypodermic needle (look around most play ground areas or contact a junkie).
• A flashlight.
• A plastic bag to protect your table surface from acid.
• A battery charger with a voltage protection, or limiter that kicks in at 15 VDC. Maximum current can go to 20 Amps, but minimum should be at most 2 Amps.
• A Volt meter to check resting voltage.
• A screw driver to carefully pop the cover off.

The procedure:

• Removed the battery from the bike.
• Carefully open the cover of the battery. If you break off a few plastic studs (as I have done) you can use some tape when it comes time to put the cover back on, but be sure to leave some breathing room around the cover (i.e. don’t tape it completely sealed).
• Pop the lids off the cells.
• With a flash light look into the cells.

Any cell that appears to be dry will need some distilled water, I use a hypodermic with the metal needle removed, and I add 4 ml at a time to each cell that appears dry.

1. Add water.
2. Wait 20 minutes.
3. Recheck cells condition.
4. Add water as needed and repeat steps 2 thru 4 until the surface of the cell seems to keep a moist appearance.
5. When the cells stop absorbing distilled water put the charger on at maximum current.

Note: It is possible that the battery will not charge at maximum, do not worry, it may need some TLC. I have dropped the charging rate down to low (trickle, or about 2 A) and monitored the water adding it as needed to maintain the moist appearance of the cells. If you over fill your cells, when the battery is put on high charge, later in the cycle, the excess fluids will bubble out the cell access points (be careful with the bubble over because it is acid).

• If the battery absorbs maximum current (depending on what that is) stop the maximum current at an appropriate time and continue with a trickle charge over night.

I have found that checking the battery every 2 hours while on trickle is sufficient to keep it from going dry, if you apply 4 ml above the barely moist cell condition.

• Until the battery will maintain a 12.x VDC (plus or minus) with the charger leads disconnected over night and has been charged for a period of time between 24 to 48 hours with a trickle and a short duration high current charge it is not up to snuff.
• Let the battery finish off by trickle charging it until you observe the moist (but not wet) cell condition on all cells evenly.

You may need to let the battery charge longer to remove excess water, or add water to some cells as the fluid goes down to get them all looking similar.
Alternative water reduction techniques for the impatient:

• Excessive water that remains on the cells after your battery is fully charged can be removed by putting the metal needle tip back on the hypodermic and sucking the excess water out of the cells.
• Tip the battery upside down in the sink and see what comes out.

BECAREFUL with the fluids that the battery yields via any mechanism, they should be diluted with water and flushed down the pipes because they are acid. It will put a hole in clothes and cause an open cut to burn (leaving a scar).

Most important is not to exceed 15 VDC while charging.

At 160 euro a pop, I have saved myself 480 euros so far with this technique.
Ken "motts" Applegate, Paris (France not Texas)
California EV, V10 Centauro GT

17/06/2008 15:39. plotino #. MOTO GUZZI No hay comentarios. Comentar.




Buenas Plot..., me alegra que poco a poco vayas pillando el "intringulis" técnico..., es muy conveniente si se tiene una Guzzi ...

Bueno, en las "directrices básicas" que te pasaron,  recomiendan ENCARECIDAMENTE (MUST !!!!  ) que conectes la carcasa del regulador al borne negativo de la batería, usa para ello un cable con un grosor mínimo de 4mm . 
Dicen que la ausencia de este cable, genera picos de voltaje que llevarian a la destrucción de la ECU (caja negra)...

Ya sabes, manos a la obra...       Es facil de hacer y te ahorrarás sustos...  




Efectivamente Plot...., se trata del reglaje de válvulas... Recomiendan regular la válvula de admisión a 0,15mm , y la de escape a 0,20mm.

Esto significa dejarla a 0,05mm más de lo descrito en el manual de usuario, pero según dicen, es necesario para garantizar una "estabilidad" a largo tiempo, y mantener los intervalos de mantenimiento cada 10000 kilómetros. Sin ello , incluso a ralentí iría mal...

Estos temas los puedes ir "recopilando" y cuando la lleves al taller le comunicas al paisano que te la deje como tu quieres...




Si sale aceite del frente de la caja del cardan, se debe cambiar el retén del eje... , caben dos retenes !!! 

No sé exactamente a que retén se refiere..., lo mejor es que preguntes cual exactamente , mira el siguiente esquema:



Si el aceite sale de cualquier otro sitio, taladra un pequeño orificio en el tornillo de llenado, conectale un tubito de plástico y posiciona el otro extremo del tubo lo mas alto posible. Yo tengo ese tubo en dirección a la caja de cambio , debajo del asiento, finalizando cerca de la ECU

 Con ese tubito lo que se pretende es crear un "respiradero" para la sobre presión de aceite que pueda haber... , normalmente acaba en algún "recoge-aceites made en casa", como puede ser una lata de coca cola (te sirve tambien cualquier otro refresco  )  Lo vas controlando y cuando esté lleno lo vacias...

Aunque el tema de la sobrepresión no es tan facil como ponerle el respiradero... Lo primero es procurar no llenar demasiado aceite, lo mejor es tener la cantiad justa... , que se mantenga entre mínimo y máximo...
Si echa mucho aceite (incluso teniendo el justo) puede ser indicativo de cilindros gastados ... , éstos al tener mucha holgura, ejercen presión hacia el carter


La horquilla delantera debe rebajarse en 10mm

Se refiere a rebajar la altura de las barras delanteras.... Seguro que así se consigue una mejor conducción. La manera de hacerlo es dejar que las barras "sobresalgan" de la tija 10 milimetros. En la siguiente foto podrás observar como las barras (en color bronce ) sobresalen de la tija..., de esta manera bajas la suspensión delantera:



No uses jamás pastillas de freno sinterizadas

Seguro que lo dice porque al ser mas duras que las normales, se "comen" el disco de freno muy rápido...



Tema 4
Pinzas de freno: 
Cambia los tornillos estandar de 8.8 que aprietan la mitad de cada pinza frontal de frenos , por unos M8x40mm de tipo "allen" . El par de apriete debe ser de 40 Nm. 
Obtendrás una frenada lineal en vez de decreciente

Se refiere a los dos tornillos que van en la parte frontal de cada pinza (freno delantero).... En la imagen (pinza  izquierda ) verás los huecos donde van...  



Presión de gasolina: Conecta el medidor de presión de gasolina a una de las tomas o a las dos... Incrementará la manejabilidad en cambios de lastre (ver mi descripción de EPROMs ) .

Correa de distribución: Contitech Syncroforce CXP STD 640-S8M-20 con 80 dientes.



Nivel de aceite de motor: 10 mm por encima del máximo (con el medidor totalmente enroscado )

Aceite de motor: Sintético  10W60, 1oW50 o 20W60. Nunca 5W... or 0W...

Nivel de aceite de la caja de cambios: Sintético 0,60l.  Olvídate del indicador de nivel.

Nivel de aceite del cardan: Sintético 0,20l. Olvídatte del indicador de nivel

Filtro de gasolina: Mahle KL14, Art. 07637655 o MANN WK 613

Filtro de aceite: MANN W712/52

No estoy muy de acuerdo con el nivel de aceite del motor, yo jamás sobrepasaría el nivel de máximo... , lo mejor es dejarlo un pelín por encima de la mitad y controlarlo a menudo...

Sobre los filtros de aceite, tambien :


> Bloque 1100 (Centauro, Cali, V11, etc... )   
UFI 2328700
HIFLO-FILTRO   HF551 (incluso Griso, Stone, Quota... )
Purolator ML17782

Rojo = Alternativos contrastados en la web del fabricante.





16/06/2008 14:43. plotino #. MOTO GUZZI No hay comentarios. Comentar.



Seems the BEAST was getting (shall I say) temperamental on me at idle as of late. After reading Guzziology and understanding the trim pot a bit more, I went in to take a peek. I richened things just a tad (about 11:30 on the dial) and whoa did it make a difference. It’s like a whole new machine how smooth it is down low and not a wink at idle. Pretty cool stuff. There’s a Hell of a lot to learn on this machine...but it’s fun to have to be in touch with its behaviors. Razz

There is an idle mixture screw (actually from idle to 3000 RPM) in the CPU under your seat. You have to take off the tape and rubber plug to get at it. That is known as the "trim pot". It is much smaller than I had imagined (the screw that is). To lean out the mixture you turn the screw clockwise, for richer anti-clockwise. I warn you to be VERY careful with this. Any static electricity will fry the CPU, so ground yourself first if you use a small metal screwdriver. It is best if you have a plastic one. ANyhow, if you should try adjusting things, make very small changes at a time. Also...the CPU needs time after shutting down the bike to recalibrate, so wait about 30 seconds before messing again with the screw. I got mine the first try without the bike running with a very small adjustment from about 12:30 to 11:30. I think it turns from about 8 to 4 if you’re thinking of a clock (roughly 120 degrees). I’m looking at the screw as if sitting backwards on the seat. I hope this helps? I simply read in Guzziology that if the idle is rough one answer could be to richen the mixture a bit. It worked for me, but I tried the idle adjustment screw first. Please be careful inside the CPU...and also replace the tape afterward to seal it from water.
Others...please chime in if I’ve stated something wrong. I am far from being one to thoroughly understand this or walk someone through it.

Yes. Treat the trim screw about like the idle mxture screw on carbs.

Keep in mind that it only has about 270 degrees of rotation. I’ve had to repair a couple where the owners cranked them too far and broke them.

A plastic screwdriver is a good idea if you have one. And a little mark with a sharpie marker can help you see the trim screw turn easier.

Where precisely is this air/fuel screw on the injectors... anybody got a picture and an arrow?

It's inside the standard WM16M ECU - look under the large rubber bung for a small slotted poetiometer.

The "By-pass" adjustment (air/fuel) is at bottom of the injector body inside a hole facing up. I use a thin small screw driver. The "trim" adjustment is under the rubber plug inside the ECU.



05/06/2008 11:53. plotino #. MOTO GUZZI No hay comentarios. Comentar.





A Guide to Moto Guzzi


V-twin Motorcycles —


designed to supplement existing


service manuals and parts references



David Richardson


Self-Published by David Richardson

Seattle, USA























ALL THAT STUFF THAT COMES BEFORE THE FIRST CHAPTER                                  1

MODEL HISTORY                                                                                                                           2

BASICS                                                                                                                                             3

ENGINE TOP END                                                                                                                          4

ENGINE BOTTOM END AND EXTERNALS                                                                             5

IGNITION SYSTEMS                                                                                                                       6

CARBURETORS, FUEL INJECTION, & air FILTERS                                                           7

EXHAUST SYSTEMS                                                                                                                     8

CLUTCH AND FLYWHEEL FOR MANUAL TRANSMISSIONS                                            9

MANUAL TRANSMISSIONS                                                                                                      10


DRIVESHAFTS AND U-JOINTS                                                                                                12

REAR DRIVES                                                                                                                              13

GEARING                                                                                                                                        14

CHASSIS                                                                                                                                        15

HAND & FOOT CONTROLS AND INSTRUMENTS                                                              16


CHARGING SYSTEMS                                                                                                                18

BRAKES                                                                                                                                         19

FRONT FORKS                                                                                                                             20

REAR SHOCK ABSORBERS                                                                                                    21

WHEELS                                                                                                                                         22

GUS’S BIKE                                                                                                                                   23

PARTS AND PERFORMANCE KITS                                                                                        24






Listening to Car Talk on (US) National Public Radio, I heard a statement of profound truth. One of the brothers (Tom & Ray Maliozzi) hosting the show told a listener that her local mechanic probably learned to fix cars the old-fashioned way: by making mistakes on other people’s cars. This is probably even more prevalent in motorcycle repair, especially with Moto Guzzis, since I’ve only recently known of national service training seminars for dealers’ mechanics here in the US. Add to that the sometimes — shall we say — inspecificity of the factory manuals and it became obvious to me that there was a place for my compilation of experiences (mistakes).

This is not a repair manual in the usual sense. That need has already been attended to by the factory and others. Instead, this manual is intended to supplement repair manuals and parts references. To that goal I have provided expanded explanations, corrections, new ideas, opinions, easier methods, and updates. I’ve also tried to alert you to likely problems where repair manuals tend to list all operations without weighing them as to frequency. As well as helping owners, my hope is that this book will benefit new Guzzi dealers (and old ones) and new dealer personnel.

Besides the gaps in the service manuals, the Guzzi parts references are also incomplete to varying degrees. Much necessary information regarding correct part numbers has been lost over the years so I’ve also included as much of it as I know. I have not, however, included references to square-fin and small-twin police models, as their variations are too many, too frequently revised, and I’ve never seen the bikes over here. I have listed many of the accessory items now being distributed in the US by our importer, Moto Guzzi North America. Obviously for European owners, far more accessories are available from more logical sources than Moto America.

I have long been a self-appointed cheerleader for Moto Guzzi, missing no opportunity to point out the obvious and unrealized advantages of owning one. Yet another reason for compiling this book has been to offer what hopefully will be one more plus to owning a Moto Guzzi. I don’t know of any other motorcycle brand for which this scale of reference material exists in one volume. And that segues to another reason for writing this book: so that I could compile all the information I need in a way I can easily use. Yes, I do have a well-worn copy of this book at work and frequently use it. You don’t think I remember all this stuff, do you?

It has not been my goal to produce yet another thin, slick book that’s longer on sales appeal than in-depth content. I don’t believe that we need another book to describe the many advantages of a V50 II over a V50. There are already plenty of books like that type, designed for an evening’s entertainment. This is a reference book — intended to help you make your Moto Guzzi into what you want it to be and keep it that way.

Mind you, I don’t profess to be the authority on Guzzis. I’m just a guy who bothered to put what I believe to know in a book. I have no formal training as a mechanic. My college degree is in, of all things, human services.

So what are my qualifications? As a kid I rode dirt bikes, the last before my “age of the first driver’s license” was a Ducati RT 450. That lead to a Ducati V-twin street bike which lead to a few years as a very inept road racer. My racing days ended when I realized that I had never crashed on the street (and still haven’t, knock on wood!) but usually hit the pavement about every other weekend racing. My Ducati days ended in 1985 when I concluded that Cagiva was never going to support my 900 Desmo with a sufficient parts supply. At the time, a Guzzi was “that other Italian bike” that was usually sold at the same shops as Ducatis, due to the fact that from the mid ’60s through 1982 the two brands were imported to the US through the same firm.

From ’85 through the present I have owned a Guzzi and have earned my living working at a Moto Guzzi dealership almost continually since 1983, most of that time until recently as a mechanic. Probably my best qualifications become evident when I tell you how many of various parts my old Convert has worn (not worn out). It has had 3 sets of cylinder heads, 4 sets of cylinders, 5 sets of pistons, 3 crankshafts, 3 crankcases, 3 camshafts, 2 sumps, 4 sets of connecting rods, 2 flywheels, 3 engine breathers, 5 sets of carburetors, 2 front wheels, 4 rear wheels, 4 swingarms, 3 sets of brake calipers, 2 sets of brake rotors, 4 alternators, 3 center stands, 4 sets of rear shocks, 3 sets of fork dampers, 3 sets of fork sliders, 2 sets of fork tubes, 3 front fenders, 3 clutch levers, 3 foot master cylinders, 5 hand master cylinders, 3 sets of footrests, 4 left handlebar switch modules, 2 throttles, 2 headlights, 2 instrument panels, 3 seats, 2 gas tanks, 6 handlebars, 3 air filter arrangements, 2 tail lights, 2 sets of luggage, 3 sets of luggage mounting brackets, 4 exhaust crossovers, 2 sets of mufflers, and somehow, only 2 speedometer cables. Now this (I hope) says a lot about me and about my beliefs. First off, I believe that you learn a lot by trying things. Secondly, most of the parts on my bike are standard Guzzi—they just come from a whole lot of different models and reflect my ever growing respect for ricambi originale.

Kevin Cameron once wrote in the now defunct Cycle Magazine about aspects of “super-good ride feel.” This somewhat clumsy term fairly accurately describes my last aim in producing this volume: to help you make your Moto Guzzi the best it can be and the best suited to you.

In describing this book to others, I have often heard it said that what I have done is create yet another Moto Guzzi tips book, similar to those offered through the US Moto Guzzi National Owner’s Club. In a sense that’s true, but the differences are many. For instance, my realm of experience includes exposure to many examples of each model, so I have more opportunity to know if a particular problem is unique or common. Also, I have far more factory documents at hand for information and comparisons. On the down side, I wrote this entire book myself so the perspective is narrow. The MGNOC Tips Books are the compilations of hundreds of people writing down their ideas about just their bike(s). I think both approaches are very useful.

As this manual is intended for my fellow members of this litigious society, I need to make a statement of disclaimer, as if it will do me any good in the worst eventuality. This manual exists as a compilation of my knowledge and experience as a Moto Guzzi mechanic and owner. Any and all information in this manual is only to be used by others at their own risk. Any suggestions that would modify the engine, exhaust, or intake systems of US or other emission-controlled models are intended for off-road or racing purposes only. Street applications of these modifications are illegal, and should not be construed as their implied intent.

As this manual was produced in the United States from experience with US-model V-twin motorcycles legally imported here since 1967, some suggestions may not be applicable to other models and variants of Moto Guzzis. Since there has been some interest in this book outside the US (thank you very much!), I have been adding more and more references to non-US models.

A word on conventions: so as to ease the flow of the book, I have used several terms, borrowed or made up, to classify various models and relationships. They are:

      Left/Right                      As perceived by a normally seated rider

      Inside                             Closer to the fore/aft centerline of the frame

      Outside                          Farther from the fore/aft longitudinal centerline of the frame

      Front/Forward              Situated closer to the most forward point on the motorcycle

      Back/Rearward             Situated closer to the most rearward point on the motorcycle

      Big Twin                        Any model displacing 703 (700), 749 or 757 (750), 844 (850), 949                                                                 (1000) or 1064 cc (1100), not including the high-cam 992 (1000 cc)

      Small Twin                     Any model displacing 346 (350), 389 (400), 490 (500), 643 (650), or                                                              744 cc (750) — Ippogrifo not included until we know more about it

      Round Fin                     Any big-twin model with oval-shaped cylinder and head finning (all                                                        pre-1985 except the California II, T5, and LeMans III)

      Square Fin                     Any two-valve big-twin model that  has cylinder and head finning with                                                   angled corners (all 1983–on big twins except the 1000 SP)

      Civilian                           Models with footpegs and standard (medium height)   handlebars

      Police                             Variant of civilian model sold to the public with footboards and high                                                       handlebars — sometimes referred to as a “California”

      Loop Frame                   Any model with a generator

      Tonti Frame                   Any big-twin with an alternator except those with the spine frame or                                                        dual-sport frame. The term pays tribute to Lino Tonti, who first                                                             designed this straight-tube masterpiece with removable lower rails for                                                     the V7 Sport. It’s been the pattern for all subsequent big-twin frames                                                              through the California EV?Jackal/Bassa except spine frame and dual-                                               sport models.

      Spine Frame                  As used on the Daytonas, Sport 1100s, Centauros, & V11 Sports

      Dual-sport Frame         As used on the Quota models

      Exposed Driveshaft     As used on the Daytonas, Sport 1100s, Centauros, & V11 Sports

      Enclosed Driveshaft    All models except the Daytonas, Sport 1100s, Centauros, & V11 Sports

      Small Valve                    Any big twin with standard 41-mm intake and 37-mm exhaust valves.                                                       These engines have 29- or 30-mm carbs or rarely fuel injection.    

      Medium Valve              Any big twin with standard 44-mm intake and 37-mm exhaust     valves                                                    with either 36-mm carbs or fuel injection. Does not include the uniquely                                             configured Sport 1100s and V11 Sports.

      Big Valve                       Any big twin with standard 40-mm carbs, 47-mm intake & 40-mm                                                               exhaust valves — doesn’t include the Sport 1100s & V11 Sports.

      High Cam                       Any 992 cc big twin with a belt-driven camshaft in each cylinder head.

      1000                                Any 949 cc engine with two valves per cylinder. High-cam models are                                                     excluded because they have so many unique details, to have included                                                             them would have filled the book with lists of exclusions.

      1000 SP NT                    Late version of the 1000 SP having nearly flat (non-upswept) mufflers                                                     and non-folding footpegs

      1000 SP                          Refers both to the early and NT versions unless otherwise specified

      V50                                 Refers both to the V50 and V50 II unless otherwise specified

      LeMans II                      Refers only to this specific model and not also to the US variant, the                                                       CX 100, unless otherwise specified

      LeMans                         Refers only to the LeMans I, II, III, IV, and V and not also to the                                                               CX 100 unless specifically included (which doesn’t mean that I                                                      don’t think of the CX 100 as a true LeMans)

      California II                   Refers to just the five-speed version and not also to the California II                                                        Automatic unless specifically included or written as plural

      California III                  Refers only to carbureted version and not also to the California III i.e.                                                     unless specifically included or written as plural

      FD or Dresser               Refers to the fully-outfitted version of the California III, with a frame-                                                      mounted touring fairing, saddlebags, and a trunk

      Cruiser                           Common version of the Cal III without Dresser appointments, may or                                                      may not have a windshield and may or may not have saddlebags, but                                                           will have standard (not [low] Classic or [big] Dresser) handlebars

      Classic                           Low-bar Cal III, always without accessories (windshield & bags)

      California 1100              Refers only to carbureted version and not also to the California 1100i                                                      unless specifically included or written as plural. Chassis details also                                                         apply to the California 1000 (not the same as the California III)

      V40 Capri                       Rare model hardly covered here, mainly because I lack references for                                                       it— can be considered the same in most respects as the V35 Imola II.

      Sport 1100                     Refers only to carbureted version and not also to the Sport 1100i                                                              unless specifically included or written as plural

      Sport 1100s                   Refers only to the Sport 1100 and the Sport 1100i and not also to the                                                       V11 Sport

      Daytona                         Refers only to original version and not also to the Daytona Racing                                                          and/or RS unless specifically included or written as plural

      T5                                   Refers only to early series I, II, & III and not also to the ’94-on version

      Euro or world                Standard version (as opposed to a country-specific variant) of a model

      US                                   Variant of the Euro version for the US market

      EPA                                United States Environmental Protection Agency — refers to                                                                      modifications for compliance with US emissions standards.

      N/A                                                Not available or not applicable

      N/L                                 Not listed — in other words it never has been available

      NAS                               Not available separately — can only be had as part of an assembly

      NLA                               No longer available

      i.e. or i                            Model suffix for the fuel-injected variant of a carbureted model

      MGNOC                         Moto Guzzi National Owner’s Club (US)

      Moto America              US Moto Guzzi importer (now officially Moto Guzzi North America)

      EV                                   Refers to both the California EV and ’98—’99 US-only V11 EV

      V11 EV                           Refers to just the ’98—’99 US-only variant

      Bassa                             Refers to both the California Special and ’99—’00 US-only V11 Bassa

      Jackal                             Refers to both the California Jackal and 2000 US-only V11 Jackal

      Nikasil/Nigusil              Used interchangeably, the former refers to the modern cylinder plating                                                    developed by Mahle and used by BMW, Ducati, and several others.                                                         The latter is Guzzi’s own version.

A big problem for me in writing this book has been organization. I know my style and I know the material I’m covering — this isn’t a gripping novel destined to hold readers spellbound cover to cover. Since most readers will only be looking for small, specific pieces of information at any one time, the difficulty for me has been in making the information accessible.

That’s why all chapters begin on a right-hand page so that they’re easier to find when thumbing though the book. Within the chapters, the headings and subheadings each have their own style so you can tell which topics relate to which previous ones. What follows is what they each look like.

chapter title

Main heading within a chapter

First degree sub-heading

Second degree sub-heading

Third degree sub-heading

Fourth degree sub-heading

The master table of contents (which precedes this chapter) merely lists the number of each chapter. There is also a highly-detailed and very extensive table of contents at the beginning of each chapter. In each chapter’s table of contents, the main headings alone are in bold type with each degree of sub-heading further indented from the left margin. The pages of each chapter are numbered with the chapter number followed by a hyphen, then the page number of that chapter. For example, pages in the Brakes chapter are numbered 19-1, 19-2, 19-3, and so forth. I wanted to include continuous page numbering but the size of this work apparently exceeds some sort of structural limit in my word processing software (no matter what Microsoft said in their manual for it). What you see is the best method I could devise and, I believe that once you get used to it, actually makes it easier to navigate the book. Better yet, this setup made it possible for me to make immediate updates, requiring at most the reprinting of a single chapter.

While many sections only have meaning when a need occurs, some, I believe, contain important information for you to consider immediately. To alert you of the latter, those headings are double underlined, as are their corresponding listings in their chapter’s table of contents. This important information applies whether you have just purchased a used bike, a new one, or the same familiar mount has graced your garage for a long time.

Side column headings are used to signify when a section is only applicable to certain models or variations. Some abbreviations within the side headings aren’t specific enough, such as “Late Eldorado” or “All.” My intention is simply to draw your attention to everything that may be useful to you. Just remember that that section may only apply to a variant of your model other than your own. This same rule applies to applications listed in tables. Otherwise, some tables and side headings would have been longer than their accompanying text! The same side-heading applications are in force until a new side heading appears, even if it’s several sections later.

Of greatest importance is to tell you how I envisioned this book to be used. I tried to organize the material in such a way so that when you are about to work on something or order parts, you can first look in the appropriate section to see if this book offers anything applicable. This can be a tedious way of going about things but it’s really the only way that works.

Often I will cite Moto Guzzi part numbers for convenience. Usually they appear in parenthesis without further explanation as two groups of four digits separated by a single space (Moto Guzzi lists them as 8 digits in a row but I find that style more difficult to read, say, and remember). Some part numbers will appear in strike-through (1208 7000), meaning they are no longer available. This notation shouldn’t be trusted completely as parts suddenly become unavailable and some unavailables return. More so, what is currently unavailable in the US may be available from European sources. Stranger yet, we sometimes have the last of something over here that’s long been unavailable in Europe.

I’ve also included many references to aftermarket parts and accessories available through Moto America. I rarely included similar references to parts from other sources as they may not all be easily available to everyone and, quite frankly, I certainly don’t know everything offered by everyone. When a part number reference is to a Moto America offering it will appear something like “(MA 9999 2800)”. I realize of course that many more accessories and aftermarket parts are available in Europe. Until Moto America began importing accessories in the early ’90s, few items other than factory Guzzi parts were easily available to North Americans. It’s still spotty but generally getting better.

To European Guzzisti, please excuse our American excitement regarding the availability of items you may think of as common. I know that many of the same items we finally enjoy have long been available to you from a variety of sources. So that you do have at least one source for reference, I’ve included many part numbers from Teo Lamers Motorrijwielen in Nijmegen, Holland, as they sell both retail and wholesale throughout Europe and are conversant in most Western European languages (and they’re great people as well!). When a part number reference is to a Teo Lamers offering it will appear something like “(TL 2803 6060 5150)”.

Rarely will I refer to the US price of an item, and then usually only in general terms. Obviously, prices change and I don’t want to make your local dealer look bad because the dealer’s price is more than my possibly dated appraisal.

Some explanations are enhanced by information in additional sections. In many cases I have abbreviated references to the name of the chapter and the heading enclosed in brackets, such as {Ignition Systems: Spark plug wire}. If the reference is in the same chapter I just name the appropriate section {Spark plug wire}. If there are two references in the same chapter I separate them with an italic “and” such as {Integrated brakes on big twins and Reverting to conventional (non-integrated) brakes}. Some sections have relevance to several chapters. If it’s a small point, I’ve often repeated the information each time it’s applicable. In others I have placed the section in the Basics chapter (my miscellaneous chapter, somewhat like that drawer full of odds and ends in the kitchen) with appropriate references.

Factory updates are often cited by the frame number at which they first apply. Older models are usually five-digit numbers. US-spec bikes have an aluminum plate that after about 1978 contains the US-mandated 17-digit number. The original factory five-digit number is usually stamped into the steering head — hopefully not under the foil tag. I believe that the 17-digit format became a world standard some time in the 1990s.

I found in writing this manual that I had to assume a level of mechanical knowledge, ability, and aptitude in the reader. Otherwise, I would have had to start by describing which end of the screwdriver to hold. My assumptions are that you can find your way around a motorcycle and a toolbox and that what you seek here is specific information about Moto Guzzis. I’m sure you will be frustrated at times that some points aren’t described in sufficient detail. Some may be oversights and some may be because I don’t know either. I truly hope that these points of frustration are few.

I’ve noticed among my motorcycle friends that we have developed our own set of unrecorded rules regarding where to use American measurements and where to use metric. We tend to use metric for linear measurement except for exacting measurements such as bearings and journals and inches again for larger measurements over a few centimeters. I have no justification for this but I did want you to know that this practice spilled over into this book.

Sometimes you will notice that I refer to “parts references” when you might expect “parts book”. My intention is to let you know that in these instances, both a book and a microfiche may exist.

Looking back, I see that there is much less information in this book specific to small twins than for the big bikes. There is nothing intentional in this as I really like the small bikes. As stated before, this book is merely a compilation of what I think I know about Guzzis. As an excuse I offer that there are fewer small twins on this continent, they tend to have less mileage, they are less often modified, and there is less parts swapping done or possible. All of these reasons have contributed to the disparity of information quantity. Starting with version 2.0 of this book, I have added a huge number of new references to non-US small twins although I still lack hands-on experience with these bikes.

Like Bill James’s famous baseball books, Guzziology is an outsider’s book. That is, it consists of information gathered from the outside: personal experiences, the experiences of mechanics, customers and other owners, and the perusal of the factory-published service manuals and supplements, parts references, and service bulletins. As such, some explanations and conclusions are suppositions and extrapolations while others are based on actual experience. I hope that in each case it is clear to you when I’m sharing experiences and when I’m being theoretical (guessing).

Regarding perspective: I tried to vary the writing voice between “This is what I do,” “You should do this,” and “The next step is...” in an attempt to make reading large sections less tedious.

I had a lot of input from printers and publishers regarding format, which may lead you to wonder why this book looks the way it does. My goal has always been to include everything I know rather than leaving out information simply because it’s rarely used. To do otherwise would have diminished the purpose and utility of this book. I wanted to pack as much as possible into a useful format while keeping the price reasonable. This book could possibly have been a slick, “professional” publication, but would have cost more, had half the content, and probably have been bound in such a way that it couldn’t be laid flat on a workbench. I’m very proud of the way my book turned out and I hope very much that it serves you well and exceeds your expectations. I also wanted you to know that it is hand made — as it obviously appears.

The one detail of my book that I am truly apologetic about is the quality of some of the drawings. Obviously, scanning and photocopying poor drawings could only result in blurry resolution.

I have often referred to the shop I work at: Moto International. I didn’t intend this book as an advertisement (I started the book long before the shop existed) but I did want to make sure that you had at least one source for unusual offerings. I’ve tried to limit the commercial impact by referring to Moto Int. as “our shop” or “we” or other similar terms. Special parts are prefixed as “MI.”

As with anything that is believed to be known, my beliefs as recorded in this book are always changing. New information can either add a new subject to this book or confirm, improve, or replace previous beliefs. For these reasons, this book has a specific version listed on page four. Recently I’ve added the date the current version was first offered, as some have mistakenly believed that no version is more recent than the last copyright date. Because this book is produced in small batches (10 to 30 at a time) the version number is always progressing as (I hope) is the book’s content, in a way no hard-cover book can match. The downside of all these revisions is that I’m sure the continuity has been reduced and some references no longer agree. Sorry about that. I fix problems when I find them or when someone kindly points them out to me.

Already in this introduction I have “borrowed” ideas from a radio show about cars, a motorcycle magazine article, and a series of baseball books. Keeping with that plagiaristic theme, here is my version of Robert Fulghum’s now-immortal Credo from his book, All I Really Need To Know I Learned In Kindergarten. I’ve seen it recycled in various forms, usually giving credit to various pets as the altars of wisdom. As for me, I’ll claim that rather than stealing the idea, I simply share the same inspiration, having grown up just down the street from Fulghum’s church. No doubt there was something special in the air (besides the stench of the peat bog) around Chase Lake in Edmonds, Washington, USA. If nothing else, I learned a lot about bikes there, playing motorcycle tag (CRASH! You’re it!) in the surrounding woods. Anyway, here is my rendition which, if you’re not into warm and fuzzy lists, can also be thought of as the Moto Guzzi version of Alcoholic’s Anonymous’s 12-step program, appropriately containing thirteen promulgations.


Credo for Moto Guzzi Owners and Mechanics

Stock parts are always best — except occasionally when they’re not

Always fix the problem as well as the symptom

The only way to really find out if something is better is to try it yourself

Just because something makes sense doesn’t mean it’s right

Changes are as likely to be tradeoffs as improvements

Nothing is believable until you’ve made the same mistake yourself

Even if you cut it twice it will still be too short

Don’t fix it if it ain’t broke — unless you know it’s going to break anyway

A big problem is easier to find than a small one

No easier or cheaper approach is ever the best way

Wrenches are brain tools, not hand tools

Rarely does anything work out the way you want if left to chance

Maintenance is almost always easier than repairs — and costs less too

And for your friends and motorcycling acquaintances along the way who wonder why you don’t ride a motorcycle with a name beginning with an “H”, just remind them that the best is rarely the most popular.


03/06/2008 19:11. plotino #. MOTO GUZZI Hay 1 comentario.



Special features and tips about the Centauro

Here are some reports about knowledge and infos what to do and what can be done


Groundline: It is absolutly necessary to connect the regulators housing to battery

minus via a 4 mm² line. It MUST be installed. This "always" missing

cable is the reason for voltage peaks destroying the ecu. Without this

cable the total amount of current has to go through the stearing


Valve clearance: The new and only correct valve clearance is 0.15/ 0.20mm (in/out).

This is 0.05mm more than described in your handbook but absolutly

necessary for a longtime stability and 10.000km maintenance

intervalls. Without it, even the idle run is worse.

Oillevel engine: 10mm over the max sign (fully screwed in)

Engineoil: Synthetic, 10W60, 1oW50 or 20W60. Never 5W... or 0W...

Oillevel gear box: Synthetic, 0,60l. Forget about the level indicator

Oillevel cardan: Synthetic, 0,20l. Forget about the level indicator

If oil is comming out of the front of the cardan box you may change

the shaft seal. There is place for TWO!

If the oil is comming out on other places, make a little whole in the

filling screw, connect it with a plastic tube as high as possible. I have

this tube going towards the gearbox and back under the seat ending

near the ecu.

The fork has to be stick through by 10mm (see in the workshop manual, free available in

the www).

Never use sintermetal break pads.

Fuelfilter: Mahle KL14, Art. 07637655 or MANN WK 613

Oilfilter: MANN W712/52

Brake caliper: Change the standard 8.8 screws, connecting the two halfs of each

front brake caliper by 12.9 Inbus (M8x40mm, cylinder head screw).

Use 40 Nm! The brake power will be linear instead of degressive!

Fuelpreasure: Connect the fuel preasure gauge with one or both intakes. It will

increase the drivability during changes of load (see my description of


Cam belt: Contitech Syncroforce CXP STD 640-S8M-20 with 80 teath.

Any questions:

Karsten Steinke


Tel.: +49-2922-85266

29/05/2008 18:07. plotino #. MOTO GUZZI No hay comentarios. Comentar.


Hello, My name is Ed. My wife and I live on the California coast, dead center in the middle of Monterey Bay. I bought the Centauro as the latest in a 40 year quest for the perfect dual sport machine. To me, "dual sport" means able to cruise and to tour.
After trailering the Beast home on Friday, we took it down the
California coastline on Hwy 1, past Big Sur to Lucia and back, about 130 miles/200 kms.
In all my years on bikes, I have never experienced nor even heard of this much power on tap - it's like somebody miniaturized the motor from a semi tractor and shoehorned it in the bike. The bike was very hard to handle at lower speeds. I found I had to be in the tallest possible gear to maintain a semblance of control. Both exhilarating and terrifying - like riding a Beast

I also found the rear suspension to be overly harsh. I weigh about 165 lbs dressed out. With preload, dampening, and rebound at their lowest settings, my back was getting banged up on the bumps and still hurts as I sit to type this. Big Beast! I attribute this to the slightly cramped seating position and will be hunting for rearsets, as well as a softer shock.
Other than the above nits, the bike is an awesome, jewel-like piece of work, definitely unsuitable for mass consumption.
Any comments and/or fixes fellow Beastmasters



Ed...I agree with you wholeheartedly about your first impressions. I too am 165 lbs and 34+" inseam. I don't find the legs an issue, but the rear is pretty harsh even at the softest setting. The throttle is also quite "unsafe" feeling at first. Check my post on "twitchy throttle". I'm very new to the beast myself, but I'm finding more and more as I ride it I'm really settling in on things. Is it totally stock? Tell us about your bike a little if you would. Also, I found if you set the front forks equal to the dampening of the rear it balances things out more. I had to crank mine up much stiffer up front and also make them rebound a bit slower. It helped the throttle a lot to steady the front end from bouncing around. The harsh bumps are also now transferred over the whole bike, not just the rear end. It felt like riding a bucking bull before.
It is definitely a bike you grow into. It's not for the faint-hearted nor for a rookie. At least I wouldn't want to learn on this thing! As you get to know her a bit (and tame the BEAST) t is an incredible experience that sucks you in . Right now it may feel like you had your first date with Osama Bin Laden's red-headed stepsister, but that will all change...trust me



Yes - to all the above !!
Having regard to the suspension , are you only going to ride solo ?
If you are then a reduction in spring rate is worth consideration and not expensive. The stocker is 500lb. A friend whose wife rides a V11 (same set-up) eventually went down to something like 360 lb. She is light . You are not heavy yourself. If you will ride two-up then the stock spring you will probably have to live with. Road surface conditions do have a large part in this of course. The spring length is not an off the shelf length , (here in
England at least) at 165mm free length but if you don't mind a struggle ! you can get a 7" on .
It's important to get the static sag right here. You could go down a little but need to wind the preload up to get the ride height.
The low speed "switch-like" low speed throttle response can be cured by an aftermarket Ecu from Oz.
Enjoy the ride ....eh Centy owners !!!! heh heh.

21/05/2008 10:20. plotino #. MOTO GUZZI No hay comentarios. Comentar.


Pump prime is a good sign - ECU ’safety’ circuit appears to be working okay and letting the pump relay operate. Remember, in common with much auto electronics most circuits for ancillaries operate through switchable grounds via the ECU - keeps the heat down so less chance of frying components. Good idea to test the phase sensor though. The resistance values are in the workshop manual you can download from the ’Articles’ section on this website.

Check out the Guzzi EFI manual as well. Although written at the time of the P8 ECU it’s all applicable to our 16M bikes as well - download a copy from Dan’s website -
http://www.dpguzzi.com/ - it shows in detail the relationship between the control/pump relay and the ECU/injector relay and how power must be pulled through the first before the second can operate.

After putting on the first 250 miles on my new (to me, anyway) ’98 Centauro (29K miles), I checked all the fluids. When I opened the transmission side/oil level port, some grey, viscous fluid leaked out. I’ve never seen transmission oil that looked like that but I’m not familiar with moly additives, either. No foam, just a light grey color. I also seem to have more neutral positions than I should: an extra one between 2nd and 3rd, and a big one between 4th and 5th. I can handle the extra effort but is this something deserving of worry?


Sounds like you have some water / condensation in your gear oil. For the record, the gearbox doesn’t get moly additive... and that is jet black.

For a much smoother shifting gearbox, I recommend using the same oil as in the rear drive. 85/140W. Just leave out the moly. I started doing that after reading that in Guzziology while looking for a fix for the clunky gear shift. Seems the factory also recommended it for a while before switching back to 80/90. I’ve been doing it for years and it does wonders for non-clunk gearing.
(Using the same in both boxes also adds up perfectly to one quart)



Using "molybdene bisulfure" as an additive in th eoil give this grey almost black color to the oil. It could happens (and I do it myself) that the gear box may have been filled with the same oil as the transmission.
1 liter can fill perfectly (no spare) both the transmission and the

Hola, simplemente decirte que ojo al tema del motor de arranque, pues la corriente NO va directamente desde el boton al solenoide del propio motor (de arranque) . Esta explicacion de nuestro eminente moderador puede servir para muchos coches, porque es asi como lo montan, PEEERO en nuestras queridas Guzzis existe un relé intermedio (normalmente junto a la bateria o MUY cerca) , este relé suele fallar bastante y tambien es el primero que acusa la falta de tension en la bateria, por lo que no se excita y no deja pasar corriente al motor de arraque.
El dichoso es lo primero que se debe mirar despues de comprobar que la carga de bateria está OK.
Lo digo porque mucha gente mal informada ante problemas de arranque, se lanza a comprar una bateria nueva (70 euros) o un motor de arranque nuevo (+ 200 euros completo o +30 euros solo juego escobillas) cuando lo aconsejable es comprobar primero un simple relé cuyo precio oscila entre 4 u 8 euros.

Veréis, tengo un amigo con una Jackal (de inyección) y una vez, al desmontar el depósito y volverlo a montar, se empezó a oir un ruido anormal, en lugar del consabido SSSSHHHHHHHHHHHHH en la bomba de gasolina.
Nos volvimos locos, pensando que era la bomba la que no funcionaba bien; era el mismo ruido que al arrancar, pero mucho más fuerte y como con sobresaltos, como un pedorreo vamos (con perdón).
Después de instalar tres bombas usadas (una nueva vale 300€) y de desmontar una de ellas un mecánico amigo, que hizo lo imposible, arreglar una pieza que no es desmontable, el ruido seguía.
Al final dimos con la solución; resulta que las guzzis de inyección llevan una electroválvula en lugar del consabido grifo de gasolina, que se abre automáticamente cuando le das a la llave de contacto para permitir el flujo de gasolina y se cierra cuando aparcas la moto, para evitar fugas.
La jodía ni se abría ni se cerraba y por eso el fuerte ruido al pasar la gasolina por la electroválvula "obligada".
La solución; 79 € por una nueva (no tiene reparación) o poner una manual, que es lo que hicimos.
Y volvió el delicioso SSSSSHHHHHHHH suavecito que indica que todo va OK.
Ya lo sabéis.

20/05/2008 15:33. plotino #. MOTO GUZZI No hay comentarios. Comentar.


V 10 centauro text



Hello Angel
I am located in
Grenoble (south East of FR, in the Alps, not very far from Geneva Switzerland). Yes I have done all the changes myself and no I am not a mechanic (no diploma) but its my hobby. It’s the second engine that I work on. I have rebuilt a broken one for my bother in law.
Well, if your bike is only 11000 km there is little to do. Is it stock ? or already modified?
The are two things I would recommend to do are:
- remove the exhaust box (just behind the engine) and replace it with X crossover from Stucchi. two advantages: you can change oil without dismantling the whole exaust pipes. The bike breathes better.
- Replace the ECU chip with the one provided by Will Creedon (on this forum) It really improves the bike behavior mainly in altitude compensation (usefull in the
And that’s about it

Some advises and findings:
- Use 20W50/60 oil (highly recommended). I used till now 15W50 but a thicker one is better due to the constraints in the head cams
- Always fill the level to the max never below, you may disamorce the oil pump in hard accelerations.
- I found the that the Bridgestone BT020 on the front wheel make the bike much more easy to handle.
- Suspensions are bit tricky to adjust
- Grease the transmission regularly. Do not change it (they mention to replace it regularly in the manuals), never heard about a failing one.
- Excellent bike

When you will be around 30000Km you may want to check the state of the valves and guides (depends on how you drive) and the oil pump (known to fail).

I personnaly know guies that put more than 80000 km on it without trouble.




Hi Plotino,
I own a 1100
Le Mans cafe racer and a California also. The Centauro I have since one year now. I bought it in Sth. Germany with 20thousand km. The pre owner exchanged the cam belts already. I use the Centauro often on longer trips, it runs great and never had problems. I am not a mechanic either, so I hope it stays that way...
In comparison to the other Guzzis with the additional valves, it runs and sounds different and I had to get used to it. I love to ride it and through the special look of the Centy (people love it or hate it, not much inbetween) it chatches a lot of attention-I like that too

Let me now when you are in
Berlin. Stay in touch!


No exchanged exhaust box until now, but I wanna change the exhaust system next winter for a better sound and look. I am using the Michelin Pilot Road 2 and I am very happy with them. I like to go for a higher rear suspension.

I also use a front windshield, cause I like to go long distances and I change the big rear mirrors to small ones on the ends of the handle bar. I am not happy with the stability of the seat. Also will have check the transmition next winter, because sometimes when the oil is very hot, I cant find the neutral gear easily.

My Centy is at the 25K km inspection in
Berlin at the moment. Will get it back on Monday.
Keep you posted,

I Live in Houten. That is a bit SE of Utrecht. Utrecht itself is ~30 km S of Amsterdam.
My bike:
Pictures are from the shop in
Germany where I bought the bike. The flyscreen is now gone and will be replaced with a sportsfairing with a Gustafsen screen.

Biggest improvement untill now: a replacement ECU from Karsten in
germany. He will send you the chip for the price of an EPROM plus shipping costst (<< E10). Made low rpm handling of the motor much better

Have a nice holliday in



Hi Angel,

I Replaced the EPROM in the ECU with one I received from Karsten. This is not the Wil Creedon C5 chip. There are lots of alternatives to the C5 chip.
You will find that most of the german Centauro owners are using Karsten’s chip.



The only real issues are the shape of the seat, the shape of the tank, and the footpeg position.

The V11 foot controls solve the one issue. Convertibars will do the best job on the bar issue, just a matter of ajusting them back as far as you can to just kiss the tank at full lock. The subframe needs to be lifted a little at the rear, here are some plans for a shim.



The painting job made previos owner as well as the leather seat. The rest of modifications are made by myself. They inslude carbon racing cans, cross over pipe, C5 chip, extra light Rizoma handlebars, clear optics front light and side indicators etc. Front fairing is moved 2 cm forwards and 3 cm upwards.

Hi Angel

I bought it from here:


The world is my dyno.
1100 Sport iniezione elettronica -- the perfect merge of a superbike and a steam train


Welcome, and congrats on the bike.

Where in the world are you located -
UK I take it?

I’m sure you’ll find that the gearing suits the bike once you’ve put a few miles on it - change at or just below the rev limiter.

The V10 ’box has a set of ratios that are unique to the bike and IMHO in combination with the 4 valve lump are just about the best streetable combination the factory has produced - use the torque and the whole rev range and you should find that two of the cogs may become redundant for general riding. Dave has grafted a 6 speed ’box onto his C but I like the V10 box so much I swapped a spare 6 speeder with him so I can use a Centauro box on a race bike.

I ride a Cali EV as well and the difference in engine output means that the gearing of the two can’t be directly compared on the street, (at least by me) - it’s not a swap which I am aware of anyone doing - maybe Guzziology will reveal the ratios if you seriously can’t get on with it.


Hello Graham!
I would like to acquire rear sets for my ’98 Centauro.
Can you steer me to a supplier?



Check out the Matra pegs in the "For sale" section. I have them on my Lemans and they are the best. Really well made and thought out. I have everything John sells and it is top quality. Shoot him an email if you have questions about fit on the Centauro.


Harper’s also has billet foot pedals in the original Centauro configuration as well as V11 Sport (same as Sport 1100). I moved the pegs back to the "porkchops" on mine and used the V11 Sport pedals. If you take the same approach, you will also have to get a stock V11 Sport brake pivot bolt.



I got those from Pete at Reboot Guzzi - source of all things secondhand Guzzi but in this case newly manufactured. http://www.rebootguzzispares.com/index.html?mainframe.htm&2

He ships worldwide.




this is it: the connection screw from the inside of the gear pedal to the joint broke while I was in gear 4. so no more regular shifting. I checked the construction-within the massive appearance of the beast, this is a filigran construction for shifting gears up and down... is this breakdown a common thing, any experience? I am thinking of getting a whole new set, if available-but than I have the same thing again sooner or later. Any suggestions?







Hi all
After reading the oil pump problems I am very concerned about my bike .
I have spoken to my mechanic and he seem to think it is more of a problem with bikes that higher Ks on them mine has 22000Ks .
So has anyone fitted an oil pressure gauge to there bike to keep
an eye on the oil pressure ?
Also what is the recommended oil pressure at idle and when at higher RPMs ?

Or should I just do the oil pump mod and be done with it ?





I have done both. I used a VDO oil pressure sensor with low pressure detection to keep the light feature on the display panel.
The oil pressure I have noticed is dependent on several things:
- oil temperature
- oil fluidity
I also fitted and oil temp sensor.
Oil type 15W50
oil temp <80 deg C normal-high range 3.5-4 Kg/cm2
idle ~ 2kg/cm2

>80 - 100 3Kg/cm2
1.5 Kg/cm2 (idle)

Oil type 20W60
oil temp <80 deg C 4.5-5 Kg/cm2 (the valve should open as it must be limited to 4Kg)
idle 2.5
>8-100 4Kg/cm2
idle 2Kg/cm2



This is the oil gauge I fitted to my centauro (Ryland version) recently. We had to manufacture the bolt that goes between the heads, but we gave the specs to John (Ryland). It fits to either the left or right screw on your instrument panel mount. It’s slick and good to monitor. Peace of mind.


It is not just bikes with higher K’s. I bought some parts from a guy that was parting his bike that had an engine blow when the oil pump failed at somewhere around 9 thousand miles.... Just something to keep in mind, and when it happens a gauge is not going to help much when you are turning 5k+ RPM unless maybe you have one eye glued to the gage at all times. It will let you know what happened as you are coasting to a stop on the side of the road and that is about it. I would like to have a gauge, just to keep an eye on things, but it will not help in the event of a catastophic pump failure.



I agree Joe with catastrophic failure, however, if there is something more subtle going on before the complete failure (i.e. gear shearing) maybe it will register as a blip on the radar. I don’t know if anyone can say for sure because I doubt many have a gauge that have had the failure. Please chime in if you have had failure and noticed or didn’t notice anything on the gauge. I personally would have it no other way on this known issue on the "BEAST".



I have made a plate on each side of the counters that fit into the fairing



after usual local ride around (fully warmed up, 45-90 minutes), noticed tach was very low; pulled over, cut ignition, turned key off, waited ~ 30 seconds, restarted with very slight hesitancy to crank over - tach OK the rest of the way home (NOT where I was heading.)

Let sit for several hours while emptying garage to reorganize; went to start (dead cold) and had No idiots lights, no headlight, DID not try to crank. Noted smell of something too hot - kinda electrical in nature.
Rolled into garage, removed batt. leads, measured voltage: 12.35 - it’s almost always 13.2-3. THIS was at
11:00 pm (beautiful moon and ~68 degrees) I haven’t looked yet today.

I’ve been rereading prior posts on failed tachs - noteing mention of loose (tach) grounds, broken bits shorting, etc.
My bike is fully grounded front to rear w/12awg cable, ecu seperate cable, diode installed.


Trust your nose. Check your fuses. Try to isolate the problem by idientifing which circuit is being affected. My guess is your blowing #4 fuse. This is headlight, starter, indicators, brake light and tach.
Good Luck...


Bad #3 relay!! (center Left)

To all of you who posted in the past with same/similar problems:


Get the MATRA relays as posted in the for sale section. I just ordered them today myself. They are the best. OMRON made in USA (sealed or unsealed). They are amazing in the Lemans. The idiot lights alone light up like a x-mas tree now. My friend also noticed huge difference before I had them in mine. He will send all the test data if you should want to know. He does not work for them, but realizes the need for good relays in our Guzzi’s (and his). I have no affiliation with him, but have all of his mods and think the world of his research (and development).


Thanks Kevdog-sounds like a great resource.
When I replaced my orig. OH MY GAWD - has it really been EIGHT years?!?
- yes 8 yrs. I bought enough for two complete sets of Bosch; so that was my source this a.m. for t/shooting & R/R

It might be good to post this guys info in the "Replacement Parts" sticky note.

Thanks again!!




Don’t forget to install the missing reg/rec earth to battery negative if the previous owner hasn’t already done it - and the additional subframe and ECU box earths if not there. 

Los amis te sugieren que conectes un cable desde el regulador a una toma de tierra (al chasis directamente.. ) si éste no la tubiese..., pienso que debería tenerla de serie  pero échale un vistazo por si las flies... Aconsejan hacer lo mismo para  la ECU (unidad de control del motor = la caja negra  )




Hello, My name is Ed. My wife and I live on the California coast, dead center in the middle of Monterey Bay. I bought the Centauro as the latest in a 40 year quest for the perfect dual sport machine. To me, "dual sport" means able to cruise and to tour.
After trailering the Beast home on Friday, we took it down the
California coastline on Hwy 1, past Big Sur to Lucia and back, about 130 miles/200 kms.
In all my years on bikes, I have never experienced nor even heard of this much power on tap - it’s like somebody miniaturized the motor from a semi tractor and shoehorned it in the bike. The bike was very hard to handle at lower speeds. I found I had to be in the tallest possible gear to maintain a semblance of control. Both exhilarating and terrifying - like riding a Beast

I also found the rear suspension to be overly harsh. I weigh about 165 lbs dressed out. With preload, dampening, and rebound at their lowest settings, my back was getting banged up on the bumps and still hurts as I sit to type this. Big Beast! I attribute this to the slightly cramped seating position and will be hunting for rearsets, as well as a softer shock.
Other than the above nits, the bike is an awesome, jewel-like piece of work, definitely unsuitable for mass consumption.
Any comments and/or fixes fellow Beastmasters?


Ed...I agree with you wholeheartedly about your first impressions. I too am 165 lbs and 34+" inseam. I don’t find the legs an issue, but the rear is pretty harsh even at the softest setting. The throttle is also quite "unsafe" feeling at first. Check my post on "twitchy throttle". I’m very new to the beast myself, but I’m finding more and more as I ride it I’m really settling in on things. Is it totally stock? Tell us about your bike a little if you would. Also, I found if you set the front forks equal to the dampening of the rear it balances things out more. I had to crank mine up much stiffer up front and also make them rebound a bit slower. It helped the throttle a lot to steady the front end from bouncing around. The harsh bumps are also now transferred over the whole bike, not just the rear end. It felt like riding a bucking bull before.
It is definitely a bike you grow into. It’s not for the faint-hearted nor for a rookie. At least I wouldn’t want to learn on this thing! As you get to know her a bit (and tame the BEAST) t is an incredible experience that sucks you in . Right now it may feel like you had your first date with Osama Bin Laden’s red-headed stepsister, but that will all change...trust me!


Yes - to all the above !!
Having regard to the suspension , are you only going to ride solo ?
If you are then a reduction in spring rate is worth consideration and not expensive. The stocker is 500lb. A friend whose wife rides a V11 (same set-up) eventually went down to something like 360 lb. She is light . You are not heavy yourself. If you will ride two-up then the stock spring you will probably have to live with. Road surface conditions do have a large part in this of course. The spring length is not an off the shelf length , (here in England at least) at 165mm free length but if you don’t mind a struggle ! you can get a 7" on .
It’s important to get the static sag right here. You could go down a little but need to wind the preload up to get the ride height.
The low speed "switch-like" low speed throttle response can be cured by an aftermarket Ecu from Oz.
Enjoy the ride ....eh Centy owners !!!! heh heh.
English Dave


19/05/2008 12:29. plotino #. MOTO GUZZI No hay comentarios. Comentar.

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